Monday, 22 February 2010

in search for (the) fragrance

pardon the title, it doesn't allow me to do italics. it should read "in search of the fragrance". regular readers would know that i love and cherish my now three quarters empty bottle of "cuiron" by helmut lang. whilst on the search for the next best thing, i ask myself what i really want.

when i have 8 dusty and half emptied bottles of fragrances sitting on the shelves, 64,568 pairs of shoes of which half is unworn, a wardrobe of clothes stuffed to the edges and a huge pile of them strewn in a corner, untouched and wouldn't be caught wearing again. that's when i tell myself: i want something... different.

and while i continue to use my marc jacobs "basil sorbet splash" daily (the 300ml gargantuan bottle is probably the best price busting fragrance out there), i am also looking out for the next bottle. here are my 5 shortlisted so far...

1. "hindu grass" by nasomatto
i am fed up with high street so called designer fragrances. i don't want to be a clone. fragrances should be unique and all about the wearer. as i was about to leave selfridges on sunday, i passed by nasomatto and was intrigued by the bottle design. yes, style over substance any day! i really like "narcotic venus", but my friend commented it was a very feminine scent. indeed, when i googled it, it said it "employed the use of hypnotic accents to evoke sensuality and feminine scent in its pure state." geeesh, but i liked it though, so does it mean i like the smell on the wearer, so do i like it on myself? confusing, but my next favourite is "hindu grass". their web notes state that it "captured the essence of peace and universal love." what a load of tosh, but smell wise i like it.

their "one size fits all" approach meant that all nasomatto fragrances come in 30ml bottles only. all at... £100. click here for nasomatto fragrances.

2. "cologne pour le soir" by maison francis kurkdjian
i tried this a few months ago, and this is the closest i find that resembles "cuiron" by helmut lang. i remembered it to be very deep, reminding me of leather, of warmth. however being a cologne, the alcohol strength is weaker and thus the fragrance doesn't linger for long on the wearer. it's terrible if someone smells me before seeing me, but i just prefer my scent to stay a little longer. francis kurkdjian is also the nose/creator of aqua di parma's "iris nobile", again one of my favourite, and yet again a scent meant for the fairer sex. and francis was a ballet dancer turned perfumer. i am loving him already.

the 200ml "cologne pour le soir" (for the night??) retails for £125, available online here .

3. (untitled) by maison martin margiela
not yet available, but i am loving the clinical feel of the bottle. tipped to be a unisex fragrance, i am definitely going to try it out. like his clothes, i don't expect the fragrance to be run of the mill. yea, loving it now purely because of the bottle!

press notes also read "galbanum (floral, woody, very green), lentisque (bitter green, fern) and incense resin (ambery and oriental) combine together to make a unisex fragrance that isn't defined by stereotype and can be worn by anyone, anywhere." i can't translate that into english, but i will try it when it's released.

4. serge lutens "fille en aiguilles"
i admit, i am more interested in that bottle. anyone who bottles their fragrance in an elegant and simplistic bottle that reminds me of premium whisky must contain something exceedingly good. the unisex fragrance contained hints of "pine forest with notes of pine trees, vetiver and frankincense". i am interested to try it already. £76 for 50ml.

5. balenciaga eau de parfum
yes it's a scent for the ladies, but being a fan of all things balenciaga, i wondered why it took me so long to go have a sniff at their counter. so i am intrigued, but again by the bottle. anything in such a beautiful bottle must smell good. £42 for 30ml.

and so i guess the search for the bottle continues...



  1. Hey Joe,
    whatever your final decision is, in getting the fragrance/bottle :P do not be swayed by descriptions such as "feminine scent or masculine scent". If you love the scent on you, and it totally embodies who you are as a scent. Then I say get it! P/S You could check out CB I hate perfumes range by Christopher Brosius, if your not looking for run off the mill types. Here's the link
    Cheers and all the best for your hunt!

  2. sorry, i never got past the 64,568 pairs of shoes! what in the world? did you know that if you wear one pair a day, it'll take you 177 years to wear each of them? that's either ridiculously or fabulously imeldific! but then again, it can't be fabulous if it's not ridiculous. :)

  3. To quote Imelda, "if you know how much you've got, then you probably haven't got much." so more shoes! more shoes!

  4. You should try the entire Comme des Garcons series, especially the incense and Man2. They are all amazing and special. Have you tried L'Artisan Parfumeur? Timbuktu is a rare and unique treasure.

    If you miss your Cuiron, consider Cuir de Russie from Chanel Les Exclusifs. The most amazing leather scent ever created, though Lancome Cuir is fantastic for much less money.

  5. Hey Joe, you can read more about the (Untitled) perfume by MMM here:

    It's now available from Colette Paris, 80 euros for 50ml.

  6. My dearest and most favorite Serge Lutens fragrance is the lovely Chergui - try it, you might love it, it also has an 'iris' center.

  7. Try Comme des Garcons 2, my favourite for now.


  8. try chanel coromandel.

  9. Eau noire by Dior. only available in Dior boutiques

  10. wow.. you're really searching for rare stuff..

    i recently bought antidote by victor and rolf and I love it.

  11. I'm surprised that not a soul recommended Miller Harris' le Petit Grain. It's wonderful. In my opinion, Miller Harris is one of the few perfumers whose scents still smell rather good overnight. Don't get me wrong. I shower everyday. It's my scarves that capture stale perfume. Not me.

  12. You may wish to consider these too:

    Dzing! – L'Artisan Parfumeur
    Duel – Annick Goutal
    Sublime Balkiss — The Different Company
    Bois Blonds Cologne Absolue – Atelier Cologne

  13. Hey, I've been a regular reader for about half a year now, but it's not until now that I decide to step in and make my first comment. :)

    I personally don't think CdG 2 is a good choice as you prefer something more unique. For the MMM debut scent, I was looking forward to it, but then I'm a little disappointed having read that it's under agreement with L'Oreal, which suddenly makes it lacks the uniqueness that I'm seeking.

    As for your search, I get a sense that you like something fresh and woody. I personally would recommend Kiehl's Forest Rain. It's niche, unique...and not pricy! So it's definitely got the edge and worth a try!

  14. I was going to exactly recommend what Luxuryobsessed said. Comme de Garcons series and really good and unique. I got the MAN2 one, and it's my favorite. I went to barneys last week and tried the GOLD one and it's also really good. I'm thinking of buying it :)

    Hermes are really good...

  15. im so curious to find out what the MMM smells like, the bottle is excellent looking. i sprayed a load of some CDG on when i was last in dover street market, i smell great for the rest of the day

  16. I personally really like(untitled)and I agree with you:narcotic venus smells wonderful! it's like sexuality made fragrance!


what's he wearing?